Mini-Collection of technical tidbits for us Clod builders
Table of Contents
Suspension Links
Rod Ends
Conical
Spacers
Shocks
Servo
Mounts
It all started when I built my Project C4, a Clodzilla 4 conversion for Clod Buster. The suspension links look very easy to make, and considering how much the aftermarket wants for a set, it makes a whole lot of sense to make them myself. The task would be incredibly simple, since I have a lathe.
This is basically what it involves:
Buy some 1/4" aluminum rods
(6061-T6 would be nice, but really can be any metal).
Rough cut to length.
Chuck it in the lathe
Face and radius the ends
Drill and Tap the ends
Install studs and rod ends
Done!
Since I own a Clodzilla 4, I have something to pattern after. ESP's links are 1/4" aluminum, with 6-32 replaceable studs, and captive-ball rod ends. The ball is 1/4", with 3mm (not 4-40) hole. The links are about 114mm long without any ends installed, and on my truck I set them to be about 165mm from eyelet to eyelet. Obviously, they are adjustable and your setup may be different. The manufactuer of the rod ends is unknown, but I think they're by Rocket City (although not exactly the same as typical off-the shelf Rocket City ends).
If you need some custom-length rods for a special project, let me know. You may convince me to make you some cheaply.
This is really more for my own benefit,
since I will have to build my own suspension links for the Juggernaut. There
were discussions about rod ends on RCMT, Clod Talk, etc., but I did not save
the posts. I asked around again (thanks FreddyG!) and also did some research
on my own.
Kyosho
Many people tend to prefer Kyosho 6.8mm balls and rod ends. They were meant for 1/8 gas buggies and are absolutely HUGE.
Balls: BS-046 (KYOC2166) 6.8mm (aluminum,
silver finish), 10/pk, about $3.99.
Rod ends: #1296 (KYOC2160) 6.8mm Ball End, 12/pk, about $4.99.
Tech info:
The rod end accept 4mm stud, and
the ball have a 3mm hole.
The rod end is about 1" long, and the barrel is 8mm (5/16") diameter.
Tamiya
Tamiya makes several sizes.
6mm Ball Connectors: The larger rod ends on the Clod Buster.
Tech info:
The diameter of the ball is 6mm.
The rod end is 3/4" (~19mm) long, and the 7mm diameter barrel accepts 3mm
studs.
5mm Ball Connectors: Common on touring car steering rods.
Tech info:
5mm ball.
The rod end is 18.5mm long, with a 6mm diameter barrel that accepts 3mm studs.
Rocket City (eg ESP's links)
Look for Rocket City #87, which Tower sells at $2.89 (2/pk).
Tech info:
1/4" (6.35mm) ball with #4 (4-40,
but 3mm fits) hole.
The rod end is 28mm (1-3/32") long. 5.5mm diameter barrel. Tapped for 4-40,
but you can re-tap for 6-32 (3mm is in between).
Parma #12802 "Super Heavy Duty 4-40 Rod Ends" comes 6 to a pack. They look exactly like the ones included in ESP's kits, except threaded for 4-40. Each pack comes with 6 4-40 hex cap screws and locknuts. The rod ends have balls installed. I was told these are the same as Rocket City ends. About $12.
Parma also makes them 2/pack. $4.29 at Tower.
Traxxas
Get TRAC7942, "#1942 Rod End Ball Scr Con B E" from Tower Hobbies, about $6.69 for 18.
The rod end is 20mm long, with 5/32"
or 5.8mm hexagonal barrel that accepts 3mm studs (maybe even 4-40 or 6-32, not
sure)
Comes with mostly ball sleeves, which is about 6mm diameter with 3mm hole.
Miscellaneous
I also have some Tamiya ball connectors, that is absolutely HUGE. It is a 4mm screw that has a 8mm (5/16") ball.
These are what's usually used to stand off ball ends. One source for them is New Era Models. Their price is $1.25 for 4 (packaged), or if you're lucky, $0.25/ea in bulk. You'll have to call them, since you won't find it on their website. 603-888-4453. They do charge $6 for shipping, so you might want to order enough to make it worthwhile.
These are some of the shocks people use on their modified Clod chassis, as surveyed on RCMT board. Thanks guys!
This is by no means an exhaustive list. Just some of the popular choices.
It is generally accepted that you should use 4" long shocks.
I only have first hand knowledge on Duratrax 4" and Kyosho 4" shocks.
Duratrax tips from Clodman (clipped from RCMT Clod forum)
If you already have a set of Duratrax shocks you can get some Associated 1.32 stroke shock shafts and put them in your Duratrax shocks. I know, I know, your going to say that Associated shafts are a bigger bore, but, if your Duratrax shocks were like mine, they love to leak oil no matter what! Therefore, the bigger bore helps make a better seal. It might be a very tight seal at first, but it will loosen up quick. If you do get some Associated shafts, here are some things to remember. 1. When you take apart the Duratrax Shocks, save the e-clips and the black piston. The black piston has a round razed part on one side. This will have to be ground or filed off to fit on the Associated shaft. 2. You can leave the black seal in the cap or remove it. Leaving it will not allow full compression but will soften the blow when it does try to bottom out. If you remove it be sure to put on o-ring in the cap or wrap the threads on the body with some pipe tape. 3. Doing this to your shocks will make them a 1/2" longer with a lot more travel. 4. Believe me, this does work and has not caused me any problems with the shocks after doing so.
Build your own ESP-style servo mounts with 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angles. Raw material available at Home Depot or similar store, 8 feet section for $12 or so.
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